Tuesday, March 28, 2023

Makeup Over 40

Makeup Over 40:

The past couple of years have left me with changes in my skin, hair, weight and more. While this conversation may feel shallow or tone deaf amid issues more important than my sudden lack of hotness I was not ready for these changes. I certainly never anticipated such noticeable negative changes appearing suddenly and in an advanced enough state that I barely recognize myself.

As much as I want to curl up in a ball and cry over the death of my youth, I am an action oriented person. After taking stock of my skincare and makeup routine I evaluated what products were still working for me and which should be replaced to better meet the needs of current me (not the younger version of me). 

#1 Skincare Solutions
Any skin issues should be discusses with your dermatologist.  I am simply sharing what I have changed in my personal routine.  While I have tested a number of skin creams and potions both OTC and prescription the three that made it include Thayers Facial Toner.  I apply this toner to a cotton round and swipe it onto my face each morning after cleansing to lock in all-day hydration.  My skin has always been sensitive, but lately has gone from dry to dehydrated.  I do live in a desert climate, but my skin needs all of the hydration I can provide it. This toner is alcohol free and very gentle on the face. As we age our lips may also start to lose volume.

 I cannot bring myself to get lip injections. I hear they are very painful.  My favorite OTC topical BeautyBio The Pout Volumizing Lip Serum in Sparkling Rose.  I know many Makeup Artists who use this because your lips appear instantly larger.  The results are only temporary, but a small amount yields impressive results.  This can be worn alone, or I usually add it as a base coat under my lipstick. 

My hair is also think and the problem seems to be getting worse.  I have had good luck with Vegamour GRO Hair Serum and their heart shaped Biotin Gummies. 

The most important skincare item you should wear is SPF.  I have always been diligent about wearing sunscreen so nothing changed for me on that front. 

#2 Color Correction, Base and Concealer
Start with a primer that is best suited for your skin type. I started using Stila One Step Correct Kitten Skin Tone Correcting & Brightening Primer because one of the issues I have been facing is discoloration and melasma.  This is my first step in color correction and priming my skin for my base.  There are a number of hydrating, glowy or matte primers.  Pick one depending on your personal need. 

My melasma is too prominent for just concealer.  After applying primer to my entire face with my fingertips, I use a peach and green color corrector.  I use the peach one dotted over any melasma spots and gently blend the edges.  I also use the peach tone to correct my under eye circles.  The green, I use sparingly to cover any redness around my nose, or the corner of my eyes.  Jeffree Star Cosmetics Magic Star Concealer in Peach and Green are the products I use, but there are a number of color correctors from the brand available at Beautylish. For melasma, the corrector should be dark enough to cover the dark spot.  

Next is foundation.  There are a couple of options that I like.  If I want something lighter I will pop on Bioderma Sensibio AR CC cream visible redness reducer skin-perfecting care for sensitive skin.  This can be worn as a primer instead of the Stila one and works well under makeup or as your base over the color corrector. 

Most days my melasma needs more coverage.  I used to use liquid foundation, but switching to cream foundation has been a game changer for me. Brands I recommend are Monika Blunder Beauty, Wayne Goss and Honest Beauty.  Monika Blunder's Blunder Cover is an all-in-one foundation and concealer.  You can sheer it out for a natural looking base, or I tend to use a smaller brush and stipple it over the areas where I applied the color correction and buffing into the skin. 

Wayne Goss The Luxury Cream Foundation is a nice option as well because the coverage is also buildable.  If you like loose powder the Luxury Complexion Set, available at Beautylish, includes a Luxury Cream Foundation, The Weightless Powder and a Poreless Beauty Puff which can be used to apply the foundation and powder. 

If you like pressed powders, I enjoy Koh Gen Do Brightening Moisture Powder which comes in Brightening Pink (brightens and revitalizes dull skin) and Warm Beige (blurs the look of pores and lines).  The powder in this compact is delicate, so be cautious when packing it in your bag for touch-ups.

For concealer, I use It Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye applied with a concealer brush over the corrector. Due to my dehydrated skin, I have found cream products are work best for me these days.  This concealer does require a minimal amount of powder to set it. I recommend setting with a small eye brush or puff once your concealer is applied

#3 Color Cosmetics
Beauty brands finally started listening and there are a good number of quality cream bronzers, blush, and multi-sticks to choose from. Pictured below are blush options from Milani, Ilia and Honest Beauty.  The cream bronzer is from Pacifica Beauty.  It is the Sun Dreams Matte Cream Bronzer + Contour.  If you use cream or powder I do recommend looking for formulas with a matte finish as they are more forgiving and won't emphasize texture. 

#4 Brows
As we age our brows tend to get more sparse. I personally like using a brow pencil to fill in spots that need it and then set with a clear gel.  There are many good products to choose from here also so you don't have to break the bank.  Lately I have been usi
ng e.l.f. Instant Lift Brow Pencil in Neutral Brown along with NYX Control Freak Eyebrow Gel.  Select a smudge-resistant formula with a fine tip for better accuracy. 

#5 The Eyes Have It
Wear what makes you happy.  If you are 90 years old and love glitter - go for it.  I have found matte shadows are more flattering in brown, peach and coral tones based on my coloring.  The matte texture looks more natural and doesn't add emphasis the way shimmery shadows can. 

I do recommend that you take the time to curl your lashes.  This should always be done prior to applying mascara unless you are using a heated eyelash curler which is intended for use with mascara.  Using an eyelash curler opens up the eyes and you will notice a difference even before you apply mascara!

If you are going to upgrade your makeup, I highly suggest looking into upgrading your tools if needed.  High quality brushes will make a significant difference and now more than ever using soft bristles around the delicate eye area is a must. 

For eyeliner, I still love Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-on Eye Pencil in Whiskey. If you don't typically use eye liner, try using it to tightline your upper lash line as it will create the look of fuller lashes. Wiggle the liner in between your lashes and smudge with a cotton swab for beautifully defined eyes. 

Mascara is not new either, but instead of looking for lengthening formulas, opt for volumizing formulas and apply only to the top lashes.  Lately I have been enjoying Pillow Talk Push Up Lashes! from Charlotte Tilbury in the color Dream Pop.  The volume and lifting effect lasts all day and the slim brush head makes it easy to get very close to the roots of the lashes.  The formula is also smudge and humidity-proof. 

#6 Lip Service
For lips I want a nice neutral color that isn't too far off from my natural lip color.  I start with a neutral liner to prevent bleeding and keep everything in place.  Most days I only apply a lip gloss. I prefer something hydrating and nothing too dramatic such as Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Lip Gloss which is a lip treatment based Lip Gloss that provides a plump and healthy looking pout. 

#7 Lock It In
Finally I use Jeffree Star Cosmetics Wedding Proof Makeup Setting Spray which is available for $26 from Beautylish. The reason I like this one is that it is waterproof and truly sets my makeup so that it lasts all day long.  I just close my eyes and mist it over my face once I am done with my makeup.  I have noticed such a difference when using this setting spray and I can't imagine not having it in my toolkit. 

That's all for now! I hope you found this post helpful.  The changes that I have started to see in my skin and hair honestly caught me by surprise.  When I talk to my female friends it sounds like I am not alone. This is just what works for me.  Please share your tips and questions below!

Here is the completed look using the tips above: