Thursday, September 13, 2018

How to Rock a (Dark) Bold Lip

In 2013, I wrote a post with tips and tricks on how to rock a bold lip. I shared my methods for keeping your pout looking perfect all day long.  The strategy outlined in that post is still what I use today, so if you have not read that post, I highly recommend you do. I want to take all of the information I previously outlined and expand upon it.  A "bold lip" can mean anything from bright hues, to classic red.  However with the cooler months ahead of us, I want to focus on a dark bold lip. When working with deeper colors there are some additional steps that are useful.  Darker colors leave less room for error, and if you aren't careful can create a bit of a mess.  If you follow the helpful hints I have outlined below, you will look stunning, rather than scary, the next time you want to don a dark lip.

Here are my go-to tips for the perfect, dark & bold pout:

I have a fair complexion, which can make wearing dark lipstick a little difficult to pull off at times.  While I want to stand out, I don't necessarily want to look goth (unless I that is the specific look I am trying to achieve).  

  • Prep your lips properly.  Lips are skin and we should think of them as such.  The same way you would prep your skin for foundation by exfoliating and moisturizing, you have to provide a smooth surface for your lip color to adhere to. Please do not skip this step.  It will make your lip color look better, and last longer.  For extra staying power, try a lip primer, such as Too Faced Lip Insurance.  This product really does help create the appearance of smoother lips, and is ideal for those who have trouble with their lip color feathering. 

  • Line your lips with a lip liner the same color as your lipstick (or as close as you can get it).  This will also help your lip color last all day.  If you do not have a matching lip liner, opt for a clear one, such as Too Faced Borderline Anti-Feathering Lip Pencil. When wearing a dark lip, I do prefer to use a lip liner in a matching color because this provides an added layer of protection.  Fading is more noticeable with dark lip colors, so if my lipstick fades I will still have a layer of lip liner in the same color underneath it.  Using a clear liner does not provide this added benefit.  However if you do not frequently wear dark lips, or seldom change your lip color, I can understand not wanting to buy lip liners in a variety of hues.  If this is you, stick with clear, because it works with every color of the rainbow. 

Some of my favorite lip liner brands are: Milani Color Statement Lip Liners, Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-on Lip Pencil, and Too Faced Perfect Lips twist up liners (ideal for those who don't want to use a sharpener).  I always recommend having a clear lip liner on hand if you are a makeup artist. I am not sure if Too Faced still makes their Borderline Anti-Feathering Lip Pencil, but Urban Decay's 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencil in Ozone (clear) is also a great choice. 

Some of my favorite lip liners pictured above

  • Be sure to have your concealer handy.  When wearing a dark lip color, cleaning up the edges of your lips with concealer is extra important.  This is a tip I mentioned in my first post, but I want to add that when using a dark lip color, double check the brush that you are applying concealer with as you go. You want to make sure none of that deep lip pigment has transferred onto your brush.  For example, If I were applying concealer under my lips along the edge of one side, then were going to repeat this step on the other, I would double check my brush before dipping back into the pot of concealer. Once a deep hued lip color gets mixed in with your concealer, it can be a bit difficult to remedy.  Likewise, a deep red smeared across your chin may stain the skin, making it a bigger pain to remove than something like a bright pink. 
  • Use a lip brush! When working with darker lipstick, I prefer to apply smooth thin layers of product.  This way, I can simply add another layer for more intensity. It is much easier to add more than to take away. I find that applying lipstick directly from the tube, often can result in using too much product if you are not careful. If you use a traditional lip brush with a cap, you can load the brush up with your lip color and bring it with you in your purse, rather than having to carry the whole lipstick tube in a tiny clutch.

I often use a lip brush to apply my lip primer.  I can use the included wand to put some product onto a palette, and then dip my lip brush into the product before spreading a thin layer on my lips.  This keeps things sanitary, and helps me to get a thin, even layer that is a bit more precise than using a doe-foot applicator.  Lip brushes are also helpful for spreading out clear lip liner, or blending your colored liner inward from the corners of the mouth. 

Lip brushes come in a variety of styles. One of the more traditional styles is a lip brush with a cap that comes off, and fits onto the back of the handle, extending the handle length. This is the style I prefer to use for weddings, so that I can load up the brush with lip color and cap it to be carried in a purse for touch-ups.  I also have lip brushes like the two pictured below; a standard lip brush that has a full size handle, and a retractable style from Urban Decay that came with their Vice Lip Palette. 

 The Urban Decay brush pictured below, has bristles that retract down into the handle. 

  • Be sure your face is in balance. Bold lips call for bold brows. This will help keep the face looking more symmetrical. For eye makeup, keep eyeliner clean and add lots of mascara.  If the focus is on lips, I will often just tightline the eyes for definition without taking away from the lip color. If you are using eyeshadow, choose light satin formulas in neutral colors. Again, we do not want to detract from the lips, but eyes that are completely bare will look a 
  • Blush or a blush/bronzer combo will really help to brighten up the face. This is specially important for those with fair skin, unless you are intentionally going for a goth look. 
  • Pick a lip color and formula that suits your personal style. Makeup should be fun, and never make you feel uncomfortable. If a dark lip scares you, but you still want to try the trend, opt for more of a sheer balmy formula and give it an extra blot with a tissue. If your lips need extra moisture, a bold, dark gloss with good pigment can create a similar impact when paired with a matching lip liner. Try Burt' s Bees Lip Shimmer in Plum for a balm-like texture, or Armour Beauty Siouxsie lip gloss for a high shine pout.

Picture Above: Hourglass Lip Liner in Icon (classic, ,true red) & Burt's Bees Lip Shimmer in Plum (true pigmented plum)

  • Don't forget to clean up.  Do the finger trick. While it may look crass, the old "finger trick" works to keep lipstick on your lips, and off of your teeth. If you are unfamiliar with this technique, here is what I usually do: 
    • Wrap a tissue around your index finger.
    • Wrap you lips around your tissue-covered finger, be sure that you go all the way down on your finger so that your entire index finger is inside your mouth. 
    • Slowly pull your finger out of your mouth.
  • Done! This trick will get all of the excess color off of the inside of your lips, so it won't transfer to your choppers.

  • Optional Bonus Tip: For an ultra matte look, and super bold, intensified color, pat a smidge of matte eyeshadow over your lipstick.  Be sure the eyeshadow is the same color as your lipstick, or you can go 1-2 shades lighter or darker for more of an ombre effect. This can be slightly drying on the lips, which is why the first step is so important. 

Here is the final result: 

For the above look, I used Jeffree Star Cosmetics Velour Liquid Lipstick in Designer Blood (dark rusty red with a satin finish) over Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencil in Mrs. Mia Wallace (discontinued).  For eyes, I used Too Faced Perfect Black Orchid Waterproof Eyeliner to tight line.

My 2 favorite dark bold lip colors for Fall 2018 are: Dark Berry & Dark Red

If you like dark berry lipsticks try: Sleek Major Matte Lip Cream in Unreal, Milani Lipstick in Black Cherry or Ilia Lipstick in Lust For Life

If you like dark red lipsticks try: Ilia Lipstick in Femme Fatale, Milani Lipstick in Matte Confident, Jeffree Star Cosmetics Velour Liquid Lipstick in Redrum or Jeffree Star Cosmetics Liquid Lipstick in Designer Blood

What are your favorite dark lipsticks?  Please let me know in the comments below, or show me your dark bold lipstick looks on Twitter @MakeupMatters1

*All products in this post were purchased by me.  I do not get paid to write reviews.  All opinions are my own. 

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